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To be interested in food but not in food production is clearly absurd. -- Wendell Berry
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BEN HEWITT'S THE TOWN THAT FOOD SAVED
DAVID'S NOTES
This
is the first of two JME's about food. The second will be along in a
couple of
weeks.
On
August 10, 2009, I did a commentary for Vermont Public Radio called AFFORDABLE FOOD FOR ALL about the new whole foods
movement and who can afford the food and
who can't. It looked back on my 40 years as part of the Back to the
Land
movement here in northern Vermont and asked some questions.
The commentary caused a lot of reactions. Here are some of them.
Reactions to My Commentary of August 2009
TWO-THIRDS LOCALLY
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CHEAP FOOD AT THE EXPENSE OF GOOD FOOD
Yeah, it's a real problem. But on the other hand, you've gone through
many years when you had very little money, and good food was still important to
you. So I think part of the problem is a cultural one: how do you get people to
spend more of their disposable income on food instead of lots of consumer
goodies. I think we used to spend 10% of our income on food many years ago, but
spend much less now. Since the 1950s, our agricultural policies have pushed
cheap food at the expense of good food, and it's going to be very very hard to
change that dynamic.
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A LOT OF EDUCATION NEEDED
You bring up an important perspective on this
movement. I think that a lot of the Price Chopper customers don't go to
the farmers markets because they not only think the prices are higher, but that
many do not know how to shop for slow food products or prepare food from
scratch. There is a lot of education needed plus some way to make the
slow foods more affordable for all.
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MAYBE IT'S NOT MEANT TO BE
The issue you're
addressing, of course, is a tough one, insoluble. You're looking not only
for economic justice, parity, but also, implicitly at least, for everybody to
be aware, conscious of nutritional & ecological choices, good taste, & so
on--a tall order. Maybe it's not meant to be? Human beings being
what they are.
REDUCED HEALTH CARE MEANS MORE AFFORDABLE FOOD
You end with a question: "40
years after moving to Vermont, the question still remains: how is the
sustainable agriculture movement going to get good, affordable food to all
Vermonters, rich and poor alike?"
Along with Michael Pollan and many
others, I believe the answer lies in radically reducing the cost of health
care. Once people (who are often made sick by bad food) don't have to spend
huge amounts of their income on health care, they will be able to pay for good
food at the price it actually costs to produce (without corn and soy
subsidies).
Phil James
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THE WELL OFF BEING ENTERTAINED WELL AND FED WELL TOO
Yes, I'd just turned on the radio, doing dishes, and heard this
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ALL AGES AND MOST ECONOMIC CLASSES
Yep, we were part of that back to the land resulting in gentrification
too. I remember when the only cheese was "store cheese" and the
bread was Wonder. This town has always been a place of wealth and education,
but it seems that the divide is larger than in years past. Our
Sustainable Woodstock effort is looking at all these issues. One thing,
David, I notice that all ages and most economic classes come to our two
farmers' markets here.
THE DELICATE BUT
INSISTENT ISSUE OF CLASS
I do agree that
the farmer's market goers are for the most part the affluent class.
Norwich is a prime example of that. Though, the question of
'affordability' is a difficult one. Growing, hunting, and foraging your
own food, should be everyone's first skills.
And class
division is also about culture and attitude, not just economics. Several years
ago, I took a workshop on social classes-- the Human Services Agency sponsored
it. The instructor said, 'it's wrong to have this assumption that people always
aspire for the higher socio-economic class.' She was right, I thought. I
am not in the wealthy class, and I don't have any desire to move up
to the wealthy class. It's the identity thing.
Another thing I remember
from that workshop: what people want from food. The people in the poor class
want A LOT of it, to fill the belly. The people in the middle class want it to
be TASTY. The people in the wealthy class want it to be PRETTY. (Well, Japanese
people might be the exception to this rule. . .)
When I write
about Vermont in a Japanese newspaper, it's hard to ignore and at the same time
equally hard to articulate, this delicate but insistent issue of class in this
country.
THE CONDITIONS OF WORKING PEOPLE
I'm glad you are highlighting the conditions of working people and
raising questions about the consequences in relation to the sustainable/healthy
food movement. Growing poverty doesn't allow the means (or even the
education) for people to enjoy good food. Cheap mass production of unhealthy
food for the masses in the service of
big profit
is very disturbing.
One book on the topic of inequality that I read at NYU was INEQUALITY
MATTERS. It's pretty tame (and I don't agree with their remedies), but still,
it has many stats on growing inequality since the end of WW II.
The top 1% had 1500 times the wealth of the bottom 40% in 1983, but
they had almost 4400 times the wealth of the bottom 40% in 2001.
In 1960, the gap in terms of wealth between the top 20% and the bottom
20% was 30-fold. Four decades later it is more than 75-fold. In fact, research from tax return data has revealed
that the average real income of the bottom 90 percent of American taxpayers
declined by 7 percent between 1973 and 2000, while the income of the top 1
percent went up 148 percent.
The post-WW II boom, that at least benefited some US workers, is over
and global competition just pits workers against workers among nations in a
race to the bottom. All we are left with are more bad paying jobs, more
outsourcing to cheap platforms of labor, and a national debt that isn't
sustainable.
And as people get paid less and can't buy the products produced, then
the system (like the housing market) will continue to implode.
The food part is obviously one connection to this whole mess.
RELOCALIZING VERMONT
Here's an idea I've been contemplating for awhile, encouraged by Carl
Etnier's program on WGDR (http://www.wgdr.org/)
in
Plainfield, Vermont, called "Relocalizing Vermont," which is to make
some of our wonderful field available as gardening plots to folks in Plainfield
village who may not have room to garden at their apartments. At no cost,
and sharing the overabundance of horse manure we have due to my sister-in-law
keeping her horses on our land. And perhaps folks could share seeds, since one
packet often has too much for one family gardener.
I just learned that Nancy Chickering, a local emergency room physician
and member of the Unitarian Church of Montpelier, as am I, has coordinated
community gardens for Montpelier area for nearly 20 years and I'm hoping she
can help me move from thought to action.
Your piece is an additional goad to get moving.
FARMS TO SCHOOLS
One answer to your
question is: Farms to Schools. More at: http://www.farmtoschool.org All the
kids, rich and poor get to eat and garden and prepare and talk to their friends
and families...that's good, and that is from the new, young and very smart new
breed. And they do a lot of it outside!
THE DEVIL IS IN THE
DETAILS
The long-term viability of the localization
concept depends on its accessibility to the entire community, and that in turn
depends on how well local producers can adapt their unique models to address
the specific needs and composition of the communities that they are a part
of.
I think that there is great vision and momentum,
but, as with anything, the “devil is in the details” – and the details are what
the big discussions need to be focusing on.
Ben Hewitt's The Town that Food
Saved
Ben
Hewitt, someone I've known since he was in diapers, has written a book called
THE TOWN THAT FOOD SAVED about the agricultural renaissance in Hardwick, VT,
and the questions that the so-called new life for a famously down and out town
raises about affordable food.
This
book is highly recommended.
For
links to information about the book, reviews, etc. go to:
Ben
Hewitt: http://www.galaxybookshop.com/book/9781605296869 and to Ben's blog
about book at:
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Four Websites to Look At
The Center for an Agricultural Economy, Hardwick,
VT: http://www.hardwickagriculture.org
GardenShare, Richville, NY:
http://www.gardenshare.org
Foothills Family Farms: a collection of family farms
in Western North Carolina: http://foothillsfamilyfarms.org
Contributor's Notes
Altoon Sultan is a artist and a gardener
who lives in Vermont. She has an excellent blog, about her garden, food and art
at: http://altoonsultan.blogspot.com
Joanne Harrison lives in Morrisville, VT.
Howard
Nelson is a poet. His most recent book is The
Nap by the Waterfall (Timberline Press, 2009). He lives in
Phil
Nyokai James is a shakuhachi player, performer and teacher. His
website is at: http://www.philjamesmusic.com He lives in Portland, Maine.
Jerry Schneider, sometimes called "The Butterfly Guy," flits around the country
doing nature slide shows in schools and libraries. He lives with wife, daughter
and dog in Hardwick, VT.
Peggy Kannenstine
is a well-known Woodstock, VT, artist who paints in her studio at home and also
works in her town and state, furthering the arts and localvore/sustainable
community efforts.
Chiho Kaneko is an artist who writes a weekly column about Vermont
for a newspaper in northern Japan. She lives in Hartland, Vermont, with her
baking husband.
Jonathan
Keane holds a Masters degree from New York
University with a concentration in poetry and politics; he currently works
for a major publishing house in Boston.
Alexandra Thayer is a grandmother, mother, activist, radio
listener & programmer, lover of poetry and music and partner to a wonderful
man who adorns her fields with renewable energy.
Madeleine
Winfield has lived in The
NEK for forty years, tai chi/chi gong/yoga and sitting her way, family and
friends her connection, while she transitions out of 35 years of marriage.
Tony
Risitano is Warehouse/Fulfillment Manager at
High Mowing Organic Seeds, one of the premier organic seed companies
in America. More about High Mowing Organic Seeds at: http://highmowingseeds.com
Coming
Soon
THE
JUDEVINE MOUNTAIN EMAILITE: #50:
Quotations from Wendell Berry's BRINGING IT TO THE
TABLE
ISSUES OF CHOICE: THINKING OUTSIDE THE ISLES: by Diana McCall
WHY DO WE HAVE TO MAKE THESE CHOICES? by Todd Fleming Davis
THE PRACTICE OF GROWING by Valerie Linet
WE NEED A NEW WAY
TO FEED PEOPLE by Gail Osherenko
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